Saturday 4th April
There were quite a few arrivals during the afternoon, and they spread out between the olive trees, so no one was that close.
The farm offers a washing machine, so I went to ask where it was. I was told to bring the washing over. It was taken away from me and that it would be brought back to me later. I went for a wander in the afternoon and there was my washing all neatly hung on a line drying! Later on it was all returned nicely folded! I could not believe it 😲 Update - we have now checked out, and I wasn’t charged for the washing 🤗
Rio was really dirty, so I decided he needed a bath. I asked the owners if there was somewhere we could bath him and they offered a trug. They set it all up by the water tap and called it the dog spa! I guess the air temperature was about 24 degrees, so he was fine in a cold bath. The water was almost black when we had finished, but we had our black and white dog back!
Rio wasn’t the only one to have a wash. The three young ostriches had a shower which they just loved, it was so funny watching them playing in the water.
We did some housework and then chilled for the rest of the day. I was just thinking about making a chilli when we were invited for another barbecue - I didn’t have to think twice before saying yes please!
We met up with the English couple at the barbecue, and it was really nice to have a proper conversation in English! They were Robert’s age and we got on really well with them. Their dream is to own a Narrowboat! We ate outside on a long table. It was stuff dreams are made of.
So, not much to report about today. We felt as if we were on holiday. The heat, the bar, the outside lights and the lovely sunsets. Back to reality tomorrow!
Sunday 5th April
28 degrees centigrade today!
I got up with a heavy heart, I really didn’t want to leave our little haven, but we needed to start our journey north. We had now been away for 31 days and have 16 days to get to St Malo. A simple task but we don’t want to rush.
We packed up and went to say goodbye. It was sad but we will be back. I had to smile as on the counter was a jar of ear plugs! The cockerel was quite vocal during the night, and the peacocks started at dawn! We knew they were there so accepted them though I saw a review of the farm by someone who gave them 2 out 5 stars because of the bird noise!
As I was checking out, I asked Marc about his olive farming. His farm is totally organic, and he has 4 different ages of tree. A friend of his in the local village has an organic mill, so Marc’s olives go there. His olive oil is really good.
Our first stop was the Alqueva Dam (Barragem do Alqueva) which is a major hydroelectric dam on the Guadiana River, it is 315 feet high and stretches for 500 yards. Construction work began for the first time in 1976, but was halted just two years later, in 1978, due to budget constraints and renewed technical/environmental evaluations. Finally in 1995 excavations and construction resumed. On February 8th 2002, the floodgates were finally closed, and the reservoir began to fill. In 2010 the reservoir reached its full capacity, creating the largest artificial lake in Western Europe with a shoreline covering 621 miles.
I was amazed at the amount of white flowers growing wild in the fields and on the verges. I thought they were a large daisy but in fact they are Cistus. They seem to grow prolifically and looked quite stunning.
We stopped for lunch and realised we were under some cork trees, and you could see quite clearly how the cork had been stripped off. The cork oak (Quercus suber) is one of the most fascinating trees on the planet. Unlike most trees, where removing the bark would kill it, the cork oak has evolved to be harvested repeatedly, making it a cornerstone of sustainable industry. When the bark is taken off, the tree begins a massive metabolic process to regrow a new layer, absorbing a significant amount of carbon dioxide. The tree has to be 25 years old before the bark can be taken off and then only every 9 years after that. Some trees are 200 years old. Harvesting cork is a delicate, manual process that requires expert "extractors" using traditional axes. No trees are cut down in the process. It’s amazing what they make from cork, other than corks, NASA uses it as thermal heat shields on the nose of some rockets, gaskets in car engines, surfboards are just a few things. When we were in Évora, one street we walked down had loads if shops selling cork items. I bought a bum bag and was very taken with a hat (I didn’t buy one!)
We drove into Estremoz, and actually drove through the town walls, it was a bit daunting. We found the car park, which is actually the Rossio Marques de Pombai which is one of the largest and most impressive open spaces in Portugal. However, it was 28 degrees and the castle was up a fairly steep slope. We made the decision to miss Estremoz out and visit it another time.
We drove on to a small town called Borba where there is an aire. We took the last space and got out the chairs and our awning. You shouldn’t do that on an aire but everyone else was - when in Rome and all that!
"Si fueris Rōmae, Rōmānō vīvitō mōre; si fueris alibī,
vīvitō sicut ibi"
Monday 6th April
Today was not a Bank Holiday in Portugal.
When we woke up this morning there were 4 more motorhomes squeezed in behind us and 5 queued up at the gate. This aire is obviously popular.
We set off for Elvas which was only a few miles away.
Recently we had been noticing statues of firemen on roundabouts, so I asked Jem about them. This is what he said. “These aren't just random decorations; they are a deeply rooted cultural tradition. Unlike many other countries, the vast majority of firefighters in Portugal are volunteers. They are seen as the "Soldiers of Peace" (Soldados da Paz). Because these men and women serve their local communities for free—often risking their lives during the intense summer wildfire seasons—towns view them as local heroes. Placing a statue in a high-traffic area like a roundabout is the community's way of saying "thank you. Roundabouts (or rotundas) are the prime real estate of European urban planning. Local municipalities use them to showcase what makes the town special.”
As we approached the car park, we came across the amazing Amoreira Aqueduct which is the city's most iconic symbol. It is an extraordinary feat of 16th and 17th-century engineering. Construction began in 1537 and took over 120 years to complete. It was built to ensure water supply during sieges, it stretches for 5 miles and features up to four levels of towering arches. At its highest point near the city entrance, it reaches over 100 feet.
Once parked up we walked into the town and up to the Praca da República which is the historic heart of Elvas. It was rather a disappointment after some of the squares we have seen.
At the edge is the square is the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption. Sadly, it was closed on a Monday. The inside of the church was heavily remodeled in the 17th and 18th centuries, featuring stunning gilded woodwork (talha dourada) and impressive Alentejo tile panels. It houses a magnificent 18th-century pipe organ that is considered one of the finest in the region.
We walked up to Elvas Castle, a medieval fortification that sits at the highest point of the city, offering some of the best views of the surrounding Alentejo landscape and the Spanish border. Originally built on Roman foundations and significantly expanded during the Islamic period and the Portuguese Reconquista, the castle serves as the crown of the city's complex defensive system.
We walked back down through the town stopping off at a cafe for lunch. Two baguettes and two beers cost us £8.40.
We managed to find our way out of the town through narrow cobbled streets and a gate or two.
We then drove up to the Forte de Nossa Senhora da Graça which, sadly, was closed as it was Monday. Located on the Hill of Grace, this 18th-century pentagonal fort was designed to be virtually impregnable and is considered one of the finest examples of military architecture in the world.
We had planned to then visit the other fort in the town. The Forte de Santa Luzia was the first of the major outlying forts to be built in the mid 17th century, to defend the southern approach to the city. It is smaller and more compact than Graça but equally impressive in its geometric precision. We knew that it was going to be closed but we also knew that we could stay overnight in the car park. There was one other motorhome there and we were soon joined by a campervan. There was a lovely view over the town and the Forte de Nossa Senhora da Graça.
At night the town was lit up and looked lovely.
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