Europe 2026 - Santiago de Compostela

I am going to give Santiago de Compostela a blog post of its own as it is a long one

Monday 16th March

Woke up to blue sky and a big yellow thing up there 🤣 We were going into Santiago de Compostela for a sightseeing in day. First thing was to find the bus stop - easy peasy! It was the beginning of the bus line and the driver stopped the bus and went off somewhere. When he got back the bus wouldn’t start. I had visions of the seven people at the stop have to push it for a jump start! Anyway the driver went round the back and managed to start it from there.

We knew where to get off the bus and walked up to a little garden to get the lie of the land.

We then headed for the old town and the Cathedral. The first little square we came across had a couple of cafes so we had a very nice cup of coffee, it also had The Mazarelos Arch which would have been one of the gateways that led into the city. There were also six other entry points of which only their names remain.

From there we wound our way to the Cathedral, or at least we thought it was the Cathedral! The facade was beautiful but there was no way to get inside (it was round the back!) The Cathedral square was big and had lots of people trying to take selfies with the Cathedral behind them. We kept getting in the way!

These are the buildings on the other three sides of the square.

By the time we found the entrance to the Cathedral it was time to go back to the square and catch the little tourist train. The train was practically brand new, there wasn’t a scratch on it and, for once, the headphones worked and we could hear the commentary. It takes about 45 minutes and travel about 5 miles. We always love the tourist trains as we get to see so many places we would never have walked to.

We found a nice cafe for lunch and sat out in the sun, which was actually quite hot on my back. The food was OK but my honey and mustard sauce was very salty.

After lunch we walked to the visitor entrance of the Cathedral. I left Richard sitting on the steps with Rio and went in. The highlight of the Cathedral is the altar which was designed by Domingo de Andrade in the late 17th century. It is almost entirely covered in gold leaf, and in the middle sits a 13th-century stone statue of Saint James the Apostle. You can also see the world’s largest incense burner, the Botafumeiro. When this is in use, it is swung by eight men and reaches speeds of 42 mph! The whole thing is truly stunning and magnificent. After a walk round I found the crypt, which is directly beneath the High Altar, where there is a small silver-lined chapel containing the remains of Saint James.

It was then time to find the bus stop and get back to Kiwi. We had seen one thermometer which was showing 24° so we knew she was going to be very hot inside! I used the Moovit app to find the bus stop which worked really well. Back at the site and, yes, Kiwi was hot but we were able to sit outside and even had the awning out. A nice way to round off a lovely day.

These are a few facts we learned about Santiago de Compostela today.

This is the monument to San Francisco de Asis, better known as Francis of Assisi. It stands in front of the church of the Convent of San Francisco do Val de Deus.

There are there are five communities of nuns and only one commune of Franciscan friars in the city today. The nuns all live in closed cloister, whereas the friars work within the community. There used to be many more convents and monasteries but most of them are long gone and their buildings are now used for other purposes, such as hotels or student accommodation.

The city of Santiago de Compostela seems to be a city of two halves, firstly there are the tourists and the pilgrims and secondly there is the university which is one of the oldest continuously operating universities in the world. Its history is inseparable from the city’s religious identity, as it grew from a small clerical school into one of the most prestigious centers of Enlightenment and scientific study in Spain. It was founded between 1495–1555. Today there are approximately 25,000 to 28,000 students divided over 25 to 30 faculties and schools.

The urban heart of Santiago de Compostela is famous for its 2.2 million square meters of public parks and gardens. This high density of green space makes Santiago one of the greenest cities in Spain, boasting roughly 52 square meters of green area per inhabitant - nearly four times the World Health Organization’s recommendation of 15 square metres per inhabitant.

The Camino de Santiago (The Way of St. James) is a massive network of ancient pilgrimage routes that stretch across Europe and converge at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. I always thought it was one trail that pilgrims took, but it is actually dozens of different routes. Historically, pilgrims would simply walk out their front door in France, Germany, or Portugal and start heading toward Santiago. The most popular "traditional" route is the Camino Frances. The trail starts in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (France), crosses the Pyrenees, and traverses Northern Spain for about 780 km (roughly 30–35 days of walking). The second most popular, Camino Portugués, comes up from Lisbon or Porto, with the third being the Camino del Norte, a rugged coastal path along the northern edge of Spain. There is also the Camino Inglés which is the historic route taken by pilgrims from the British Isles, Ireland, and Scandinavia who arrived in Galicia by boat. Today, it is a "Y-shaped" route with two starting points, Ferrol and A Coruña.

So what is the Camino and why do people walk it? Well in its medieval prime, the Camino was strictly a religious act—a way to reduce time in purgatory or seek a miracle from St. James. Today, the motivations have shifted toward a "secular spirituality." As of 2026, the data shows that while over 530,000 pilgrims reached Santiago last year, only about 40% to 45% did so for purely religious reasons. Other reasons are (I’m just going to copy and paste this from Gemini)

1. The "Life Reset" (Transitions)
The Camino has become a global destination for people at a crossroads. Many walkers are navigating:
● Grief or Divorce: Using the rhythm of walking to process loss.
● Career Breaks: Escaping "burnout" culture to find clarity before a new job.
● Retirement: Marking the end of one life chapter and the beginning of another.

2. Mental Health and "Digital Detox"
In our hyper-connected world, the Camino offers a rare opportunity to disconnect.
● Simplicity: Your only daily tasks are: walk, eat, sleep. This simplicity lowers cortisol and reduces "mental noise."
● Mindfulness: Walking for 6–8 hours a day creates a meditative state. Pilgrims often report that after the third or fourth day, their "internal chatter" finally goes quiet.

3. The "Path Effect" (Community)

The Camino creates a unique "social bubble."
● Radical Equality: On the trail, your job, income, and status don't matter. Everyone wears the same dusty gear and shares the same blisters.
● Vulnerability: Because everyone is tired and away from home, people tend to have deep, philosophical conversations with strangers that they might never have in "real life."

4. Physical Challenge
For many, it is simply a test of endurance.
● The Goal: There is a profound sense of achievement in crossing a country on foot.
● The 100km Rule: Many people walk the final 100 km (starting in Sarria) as a "light" version of the challenge to earn the Compostela certificate.

Cultural Curiosity
5. Historical and Galicia and Northern Spain are packed with UNESCO World Heritage sites, Romanesque architecture, and unique traditions. Some walk purely as "cultural tourists," enjoying the changing landscapes from the Pyrenees to the Atlantic coast.

I had read the the main door of the Cathedral, the “Holy Door” only opens on a certain occasion, this is when July 25th falls in a Sunday, which it will in 2027.

Europe 2026 - Four Lighthouses and a Waterfall

Friday 13th March

We woke up to rain, so what’s new, but by the time we left at 10.30am it had stopped.

Our first stop was a modern lighthouse, The Faro de Punta Frouxeira (also known as the Meiras Lighthouse). After Jem telling us yesterday that the Spanish, back in the 1800s, were clever building short ones this one is 98 feet but because it’s perched on the cliff, its light sits about 245 feet above the water.

The lighthouse was built in 1992 (with trials starting in 1984), it was designed to be a "smart" lighthouse. Its original blue and white glass façade was removed during a 2007 renovation to give it the minimalist concrete appearance it has today.

Beneath the modern lighthouse lies a hidden piece of 20th-century history: a network of defensive tunnels and batteries. These were built in the 1920s as part of a coastal defense system for the nearby strategic naval base at Ferrol. Visitors can walk through these passages to reach old searchlight emplacements and artillery positions built directly into the cliff faces. We decided not to go in as there was no one around should there be a problem!

This looks as if it was a look out point

A gun emplacement that is now a swimming pool!

From the bottom of the lighthouse we could see a little chapel sitting on an island. The Ermita Virgen del Porto (also known as the Ermida da Virxe do Porto) is one of the most iconic and photographed spots in Valdoviño. It is a tiny, white-washed chapel perched on a rocky islet that completely detaches from the mainland when the tide comes in.

We drove to A Coruna. Why is it called that? There are various theories with the most popular being from the Latin for crown, corna. The A is simply the Galician word for "The”. It is pronounced Corunia but I can’t do the squiggle on the a.

Google took us towards a 3.2 metre high tunnel - we are 3 meters. I was a bit concerned but we had heaps of head space, thank goodness we don’t have anything on the roof.

What lovely lamp-posts.

Our destination was the Torre Hercules which is the oldest functional lighthouse in the world and carries a huge amount of historical weight. It was built in the 2nd century AD by the Romans (originally called the Farum Brigantium), it has been guiding ships into the port of A Coruña for nearly 2,000 years. It stand 180 feet high and is on top of a 190 foot cliff. While the core is Roman, the exterior you see today is a "protective shell" added in 1788 by engineer Eustaquio Giannini. This restoration preserved the ancient structure while modernizing its signaling capabilities.

Fortunately the rain had moved on so we climbed the hill to the base of the tower. I climbed the steps up to the door but Richard wanted to rest his knee. I don’t think you can actually go into the tower. It was very windy up there and I really struggled to keep upright!

At the foot of the Tower of Hercules, is the Rosa dos Ventos (Compass Rose). This massive, colorful mosaic is 25 meters in diameter and serves as a powerful symbol of A Coruña’s Atlantic identity and its deep-rooted Celtic heritage. The rose is divided into segments, each representing a "Celtic Nation" or a piece of local legend. The Seven Celtic Nations are
Galicia: Represented by the Scallop Shell
Ireland: Represented by the Shamrock.
Scotland: Represented by the Thistle
Wales: Represented by the Red Dragon.
Cornwall: Represented by a Chalice.
Brittany: Represented by the Ermine (a small animal/fur pattern).
Isle of Man: Represented by the Triskele (three joined legs).
The eighth segment is unique and features a Skull and Crossbones. This represents Tarsis (Tartessos), an ancient kingdom of the southern Iberian Peninsula.

The tower was designated as a UNESCO site in 2009 for being the only lighthouse of Greco-Roman antiquity to retain structural integrity and functional continuity.

One of the suggestions that the tower is called the Tower of Hercules is because, according to King Alfonso X "The Wise," the Greek hero Hercules fought the giant tyrant Geryon for three days. After beheading him, Hercules buried the giant's head on this spot and built the tower over it. The city’s coat of arms still features the tower standing over a skull and crossbones.

I wondered what this building was.  Jem told me it had been a prison until 1999.  It was built during the Spanish Civil War and the Franco dictatorship, and was used to hold political prisoners. Many were taken from here to the nearby Campo da Rata to be executed.

We were staying in a marina overnight, well in an aire that they had made for motorhomes.

I had asked Jem to give me a recipe using the air fryer and the ingredients I had. He came up with something I would probably made on the hob but he gave me the cooking instructions. It was very simple and I got to sit down while it was cooking. It was delicious. I shall certainly use Jem again.


Saturday 14th March

Let me start today by saying that I keep saying we woke up to rain and you now no doubt think we have had days of rain. It’s not been like that at all. The days have either been lovely or mixed. One minute it is light rain, then dry but grey or the sun is out. It is NOT all doom and gloom here 😂

Out of A Coruna and off to the supermarket. I know we do a lot of shopping but we haven’t got the storage room for a lot of stuff at any one time. Today was another Carrefour. I always thought that it was a French company but I see that by 2024, the group had 14,000 stores in 40 countries.

It was a lighthouse day with two possibly three to visit. The first was O Roncudo, a rather disappointing lighthouse but the waves …. well, I just said wow, wow and wow! They were amazing and so close. The lighthouse is modest and functional—built in 1920—standing about 36 feet tall. It isn't the architecture that draws people, but the desolate beauty of the surroundings - I will go along with that Jem!

We decided to miss out the second lighthouse and drove on to Faro de Fisterra.

If O Roncudo is the soul of the Costa da Morte, the Faro de Fisterra (Cape Finisterre) is its crown. For centuries, this wasn't just a landmark; it was believed to be the Finis Terrae—the literal End of the Earth. When the Romans reached this point, they watched the sun vanish into the Atlantic and believed they had found the world’s edge, where the waters boiled at sunset.

The current lighthouse was built in 1853 to combat the dense fogs and treacherous reefs that claimed countless ships. It stands 450 feet above sea level. Its light can be seen for 30 nautical miles (approximately 34 miles).

Because the fog is often so thick that light cannot penetrate it, the lighthouse is equipped with a massive foghorn known as the Vaca de Fisterra. Its deep, haunting moan warns sailors when the coast is invisible. There is a massive, sharp rock formation just off the cape, called the Centola de Fisterra. It has been the final resting place for many vessels throughout history.

There is a hotel on the cape. The original building that now houses the hotel was originally constructed in 1879 as a semaphore station. It was built higher than the lighthouse to send visual signals to the naval fleet and monitor maritime traffic in the treacherous "Costa da Morte" (Coast of Death). After the signalling station became obsolete in 1999 due to modern technology, the building was restored and opened as a hotel. It became one of the most unique "delicatessen" or boutique hotels in Spain, allowing guests to stay at what was historically considered the "end of the earth."

This plaque says

IN MEMORY OF THE HEROIC MEN WHO DIED IN THE NAVAL BATTLE OF FINISTERRE IN 1805, AND IN HOMAGE TO ALL WHO LOST THEIR LIVES IN THIS SEA OF FINISTERRE

We were parked up for the night on the Cape. There was an English guy next to us who said that 2 hours before we arrived, it was thick fog - we arrived in sunshine!

Sunday 15th March

We woke up to the most beautiful morning and, guess what, I forgot to take any photos 😣. Victoria video messaged me to wish me a happy Mother’s Day and I was so busy showing her around the view that I just forgot. I am so cross with myself.

We left Cape Finisterre, a place that I had wanted to visit because as a child we used to listen to the shipping forecast (I think it came on either before or after The Archers!). I could more or less recite them so I was rather sad to learn that Finisterre is no longer a shipping area. The sea area Finisterre was officially renamed FitzRoy on February 4th 2002. The change was a significant moment in maritime history, marking the end of a name that had been part of the forecast since 1949. One of the reasons for changing the name was to avoid confusion with The Spanish meteorological service as they also used the name "Finisterre" to describe a slightly different, smaller coastal area. To prevent potential safety issues and "international confusion" for mariners, the UK agreed to rename its zone. Its "demise" was so notable to the British public that the BBC even published a lighthearted obituary for the name, calling it a "familiar friend."

As we left the coast and headed inland, so it clouded over, but it was still 14° (warmer than home 🙂 - I’ve ditched the jumpers!)

We headed to the the Fervenza do Ézaro (Ézaro Waterfall) which is famous for being the only river, the Xallas, in continental Europe that empties into the sea via a waterfall. The river is 40 miles long and the waterfall is about 131 feet high. The waterfall comes from a hydroelectric dam which used to run an a schedule but since 2011 it now flows 24/7.

We had been warned not to drive up the hill from the waterfall as it is a real switchback, so I found a different road which wasn’t a real switchback but was quite steep with a few sharp bends! Richard coped admirably bearing in mind he doesn’t like that sort of driving.

We headed to Santiago de Compostela where we were going to stay for a couple of nights and visit the city.

A couple of interesting facts about the area. We have seen lots of funny looking buildings around which are granaries and are called Hórreos (pronounced Oreos). They are the most iconic symbol of the Galician countryside and are small, rectangular houses "on stilts". The stilts lift the structure off the damp ground to allow air circulation, these sit on top of flat, mushroom-like stone discs which act as a physical barrier to stop rats and mice from climbing into the storage area. The walls have narrow vertical slits to let the wind whistle through, drying the corn while keeping the rain out. We had also noticed that most of them have a cross on the top of one end, this it to ward off evil spirits and witches. Most of the horreos are like the one in my photo but the longest one is over 120 feet!

When we visit Santiago de Compostela we will go to the Cathedral which is where most of the pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago finish. I will talk more about that another time but while the Cathedral in Santiago is the official finish line, for many "traditional" pilgrims, the journey isn't over until they reach Cabo Fisterra, here there is a famous 0,00 km stone marker located right by the Fisterra lighthouse. It is the most photographed milestone on the entire Camino. Traditionally, pilgrims would burn their walking clothes or boots on the rocks at the cliffside to symbolize the "death" of their old self and a spiritual rebirth - this is now officially discouraged for environmental and fire safety reasons. Many pilgrims walk down to Langosteira Beach to swim in the icy Atlantic waters as a ritual cleansing before reaching the lighthouse.