Europe 2026 - 2 Basilicas, a Roman Bridge and some Cockle Pickers

Tuesday 17th March

Hardly anything to write after Monday.

We left Santiago de Compostela in lovely sunshine and drove 60 miles to Combarro. The plan had been to park up alongside the road and walk into the village but it all got too complicated (don’t ask) so we drove on to our Aire for the night.

Rio loved our park up as we were right beside a park and we kept taking him out for a run. Sadly this was an aire and not a site we couldn’t get the chairs out but we had all the windows and door open and we were lovely and cool.

I spent the afternoon trying to get to grips with my crochet. I haven’t done any for a couple of years and have forgotten everything ☹️ I must do it just so that Richard can’t say, again, that my crochet has been on holiday for no reason!

About 9pm we heard a car pull in front of us and then the music started - loud music. It went on for about 30 minutes then stopped and it all went quiet. We were worried that he was part of a group who were gathering but he was on his own and slept in his car all night.


Wednesday 18th March

We were woken about 7am by a crowd of people chatting opposite us. Gradually they moved away. When Richard took Rio out he saw a line of people on the tide line and realised that they were cockle pickers.

We were away by 10am, which is unusual and, as we didn’t have far to go, was a bit daft really.

We had planned to go to a site in Vigo, but it was going to be too early for us to get there, so I changed our plans and we headed to Vigo castle which stands in the middle of the city on a hill. Bad choice! If there is one thing that Richard doesn’t like it is cities, and driving in cities is even worse, add to that in a 7.5 motorhome and, well ….. I have to say he was very calm and there was little or no huffing and puffing! What made it worse was that we got up to the castle and there wasn’t a parking place to be seen. We guessed that office workers must park up there and walk into work. This meant that we had to go back down into the city and find our site. I made a suggestion, to which Richard readily agreed, to get out of Vigo as both of us felt we were done with the city. In hindsight I’m sure once we had calmed down everything would have been fine, but the decision had been made. I set Mrs Google up to take us back to Combarro while I worked out where we would go. In the end I decided to go on to Viana do Castelo, our first point of call for Thursday. It was another 60 miles but all on motorways.

We crossed the border into Portugal, but forgot all about the change of time to GMT until later in the afternoon.

We needed milk so stopped at a Lidl, but they didn’t sell fresh milk! I just don’t like long life milk. Has anyone any idea why all Lidl shops seem to smell the same? The one we used to go to in Mojacar had exactly the same smell.

Our park up for the night was 650 feet above the town of Viana do Castelo where there is a beautiful Basilica. We were the only motorhome up there and once the Basilica closed, we were alone.

We walked round the outside of the Basilica and admired the wonderful view, and the lovely building. The Santuário de Santa Luzia (The Basilica of Viana do Castelo) is officially called the Sanctuary of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, and it is the most iconic landmark in the city. Perched on top of Mount Santa Luzia, this 20th-century Basilica is a stunning blend of Neo-Byzantine and Neo-Gothic styles. The styling of the Santa Luzia suggests a longer history than it actually has, as it was only commissioned in 1904 and fully completed in 1943. Interestingly, the first religious service held in the church was seventeen years earlier than the final completion. The actual floor area church is surprisingly small and unlike many traditional gothic religious buildings, it is light and bright. The large amount of natural light flows through the two huge rose windows (these are largest Rose windows in the Iberian Peninsula). The amazing altar is made from marble and granite - the building was built from granite but has some lovely colours in it.

We had hoped to use the funicular to go down into Viana do Castelo but sadly the track had been damaged in one of the storms that hit Portugal earlier this year, so it was closed.

We knew we wouldn’t be lonely up at the Basilica as there is a huge hotel which loomed over us. The Pousada de Viana do Castelo (a 4 star establishment) officially opened in 1979, but was originally built as the Hotel de Santa Luzia in 1921. It has 51 rooms consisting of 32 Superior Rooms, 3 Suites and 16 Standard Rooms. Room rates vary from £98 to £160 a night. We decided to stay in Kiwi!

Thursday 19th March

We had a very quiet night, though a breeze must have got up about 4am as I could hear a tree rubbing on the roof of the van. I put my Snoozeband on (no music or story) and it drowned out the noise.

We set off for Ponte de Lima, which was only about 22 miles. The one thing the town is not short of is parking, there were three large ones. But Ponte de Lima isn’t known for its parking, it has a Roman bridge which is one of the most iconic landmarks in Portugal, essentially acting as a living timeline of engineering. While often called "the Roman bridge," what you see today is actually a composite of two distinct eras. The original bridge was built during the reign of Emperor Augustus to serve the Via XIX, a vital Roman road connecting Braga (Bracara Augusta) to Astorga. As the town grew and the river changed, the bridge needed a massive upgrade. Under King Pedro I (around 1359–1370), the bridge was extended to its current length to reach the town's new fortified walls. I could tell you a lot more history about the bridge but I’m sure you might fall asleep! I will tell you a little story though. One of the most famous stories in Portuguese history took place right here. In 138 BC, Roman soldiers reached the banks of the Lima and refused to cross. They believed it was the mythical River Lethe, which would wipe the memory of anyone who touched its waters. To prove them wrong, their commander, Decimus Junius Brutus, rode his horse across alone. Once on the other side, he called each soldier by name to prove he still remembered them. You can see statues on both sides of the river—a legion of nervous soldiers on one bank and their general triumphantly calling to them from the other.

The pretty town of Ponte de Lima is widely recognized as the oldest town in Portugal, characterized by its deep historical roots and well-preserved medieval architecture. Situated along the banks of the Lima River in the Minho region, it serves as a major cultural hub and a key stop for pilgrims on the Portuguese Way to Santiago de Compostela.

We were still on the hunt for fresh milk and I found an Intermarche on the other side of town and managed to get some though there were only a few cartons of it.

We also needed lpg/gpl but neither Richard nor the attendant could make the pump work, so we gave up and continued on, finding another a bit further on which worked.

Bom Jesus do Monte in Braga was next on the itinerary. This is a world-renowned UNESCO World Heritage site and one of Portugal's most iconic religious landmarks. The sanctuary is most famous for its dramatic zigzagging staircase, which serves as a symbolic pilgrimage route. The journey is divided into sections that lead visitors through a narrative of faith and purification. Needless to say we didn’t climb the steps. We took the funicular which was built in 1882, and is the oldest water-balanced funicular in the world still in operation.

Between the years of 1373 to 1722 the first record of a religious presence was a small chapel dedicated to the Holy Cross in 1373. Over the next few centuries, several modest chapels and a pilgrim house were built, but the site remained relatively simple until the early 18th century.

Between 1722 to 1789 under Archbishop Rodrigo de Moura Telles, the grand vision for the sanctuary began. He commissioned the first zig-zagging stairways and the chapels of the Via Crucis. The architecture from this era is distinctly Baroque, characterized by its dramatic perspective and ornamental stonework.

The completion of the Basilica between 1784 to1857 was done under Archbishop Gaspar de Bragança later decided to replace the old Baroque church with a larger, modern structure. Architect Carlos Amarante designed the current Neoclassical basilica, which became one of the first of its style in Portugal.

Back in Kiwi we set off for our overnight stop which was a motorhome site in a village called Tabuadelo. We were the only ones there! There was a church overlooking the site which struck the quarter hour, I hoped it would stop overnight as it was very loud!

About 8pm the church bells started to peel out a tune, then fireworks started, then drums. Research showed that it may well have been Las Fallas, one of Spain’s most spectacular and chaotic festivals, held annually from March 1st to 19th to celebrate St. Joseph (San José), the patron saint of carpenters. Fallas are structures made of wood, papier-mâché, and polystyrene. They feature ninots (lifesize puppets or dolls). Each neighborhood has two fallas: a Falla Infantil (for children) and a larger Falla Grande. On the night of March 19, the festival ends with the burning of all the monuments starting around 8:00 PM for the children's fallas and midnight for the main ones. Only one ninot—the Ninot Indultat (Pardoned Ninot)—is saved from the fire each year by popular vote and placed in the Fallas Museum. The ritual started again at 9pm then all went quiet, and, thank goodness, there wasn’t a midnight ritual! In 2016, UNESCO added Las Fallas to its Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list.

Europe 2026 - Santiago de Compostela

I am going to give Santiago de Compostela a blog post of its own as it is a long one

Monday 16th March

Woke up to blue sky and a big yellow thing up there 🤣 We were going into Santiago de Compostela for a sightseeing in day. First thing was to find the bus stop - easy peasy! It was the beginning of the bus line and the driver stopped the bus and went off somewhere. When he got back the bus wouldn’t start. I had visions of the seven people at the stop have to push it for a jump start! Anyway the driver went round the back and managed to start it from there.

We knew where to get off the bus and walked up to a little garden to get the lie of the land.

We then headed for the old town and the Cathedral. The first little square we came across had a couple of cafes so we had a very nice cup of coffee, it also had The Mazarelos Arch which would have been one of the gateways that led into the city. There were also six other entry points of which only their names remain.

From there we wound our way to the Cathedral, or at least we thought it was the Cathedral! The facade was beautiful but there was no way to get inside (it was round the back!) The Cathedral square was big and had lots of people trying to take selfies with the Cathedral behind them. We kept getting in the way!

These are the buildings on the other three sides of the square.

By the time we found the entrance to the Cathedral it was time to go back to the square and catch the little tourist train. The train was practically brand new, there wasn’t a scratch on it and, for once, the headphones worked and we could hear the commentary. It takes about 45 minutes and travel about 5 miles. We always love the tourist trains as we get to see so many places we would never have walked to.

We found a nice cafe for lunch and sat out in the sun, which was actually quite hot on my back. The food was OK but my honey and mustard sauce was very salty.

After lunch we walked to the visitor entrance of the Cathedral. I left Richard sitting on the steps with Rio and went in. The highlight of the Cathedral is the altar which was designed by Domingo de Andrade in the late 17th century. It is almost entirely covered in gold leaf, and in the middle sits a 13th-century stone statue of Saint James the Apostle. You can also see the world’s largest incense burner, the Botafumeiro. When this is in use, it is swung by eight men and reaches speeds of 42 mph! The whole thing is truly stunning and magnificent. After a walk round I found the crypt, which is directly beneath the High Altar, where there is a small silver-lined chapel containing the remains of Saint James.

It was then time to find the bus stop and get back to Kiwi. We had seen one thermometer which was showing 24° so we knew she was going to be very hot inside! I used the Moovit app to find the bus stop which worked really well. Back at the site and, yes, Kiwi was hot but we were able to sit outside and even had the awning out. A nice way to round off a lovely day.

These are a few facts we learned about Santiago de Compostela today.

This is the monument to San Francisco de Asis, better known as Francis of Assisi. It stands in front of the church of the Convent of San Francisco do Val de Deus.

There are there are five communities of nuns and only one commune of Franciscan friars in the city today. The nuns all live in closed cloister, whereas the friars work within the community. There used to be many more convents and monasteries but most of them are long gone and their buildings are now used for other purposes, such as hotels or student accommodation.

The city of Santiago de Compostela seems to be a city of two halves, firstly there are the tourists and the pilgrims and secondly there is the university which is one of the oldest continuously operating universities in the world. Its history is inseparable from the city’s religious identity, as it grew from a small clerical school into one of the most prestigious centers of Enlightenment and scientific study in Spain. It was founded between 1495–1555. Today there are approximately 25,000 to 28,000 students divided over 25 to 30 faculties and schools.

The urban heart of Santiago de Compostela is famous for its 2.2 million square meters of public parks and gardens. This high density of green space makes Santiago one of the greenest cities in Spain, boasting roughly 52 square meters of green area per inhabitant - nearly four times the World Health Organization’s recommendation of 15 square metres per inhabitant.

The Camino de Santiago (The Way of St. James) is a massive network of ancient pilgrimage routes that stretch across Europe and converge at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. I always thought it was one trail that pilgrims took, but it is actually dozens of different routes. Historically, pilgrims would simply walk out their front door in France, Germany, or Portugal and start heading toward Santiago. The most popular "traditional" route is the Camino Frances. The trail starts in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (France), crosses the Pyrenees, and traverses Northern Spain for about 780 km (roughly 30–35 days of walking). The second most popular, Camino Portugués, comes up from Lisbon or Porto, with the third being the Camino del Norte, a rugged coastal path along the northern edge of Spain. There is also the Camino Inglés which is the historic route taken by pilgrims from the British Isles, Ireland, and Scandinavia who arrived in Galicia by boat. Today, it is a "Y-shaped" route with two starting points, Ferrol and A Coruña.

So what is the Camino and why do people walk it? Well in its medieval prime, the Camino was strictly a religious act—a way to reduce time in purgatory or seek a miracle from St. James. Today, the motivations have shifted toward a "secular spirituality." As of 2026, the data shows that while over 530,000 pilgrims reached Santiago last year, only about 40% to 45% did so for purely religious reasons. Other reasons are (I’m just going to copy and paste this from Gemini)

1. The "Life Reset" (Transitions)
The Camino has become a global destination for people at a crossroads. Many walkers are navigating:
● Grief or Divorce: Using the rhythm of walking to process loss.
● Career Breaks: Escaping "burnout" culture to find clarity before a new job.
● Retirement: Marking the end of one life chapter and the beginning of another.

2. Mental Health and "Digital Detox"
In our hyper-connected world, the Camino offers a rare opportunity to disconnect.
● Simplicity: Your only daily tasks are: walk, eat, sleep. This simplicity lowers cortisol and reduces "mental noise."
● Mindfulness: Walking for 6–8 hours a day creates a meditative state. Pilgrims often report that after the third or fourth day, their "internal chatter" finally goes quiet.

3. The "Path Effect" (Community)

The Camino creates a unique "social bubble."
● Radical Equality: On the trail, your job, income, and status don't matter. Everyone wears the same dusty gear and shares the same blisters.
● Vulnerability: Because everyone is tired and away from home, people tend to have deep, philosophical conversations with strangers that they might never have in "real life."

4. Physical Challenge
For many, it is simply a test of endurance.
● The Goal: There is a profound sense of achievement in crossing a country on foot.
● The 100km Rule: Many people walk the final 100 km (starting in Sarria) as a "light" version of the challenge to earn the Compostela certificate.

Cultural Curiosity
5. Historical and Galicia and Northern Spain are packed with UNESCO World Heritage sites, Romanesque architecture, and unique traditions. Some walk purely as "cultural tourists," enjoying the changing landscapes from the Pyrenees to the Atlantic coast.

I had read the the main door of the Cathedral, the “Holy Door” only opens on a certain occasion, this is when July 25th falls in a Sunday, which it will in 2027.