The Loire and Dordogne 2026 - Bridges both long and stable along with a swinging one!

Friday 25th September - L'Ile de Re, Nouvelle-Aquitaine
 
We left Les Sables d’Olonne and headed for the Ile de Re.
 
We were looking for a supermarket to get some fresh milk - Lidl in France don’t seem to have fresh milk and I really don’t like UHT milk.  We saw signs but never actually saw the store or if we did it wasn’t on our road - now that one is really frustrating!
 
As we approached the Ile de Re there is a really long bridge - 1.82 miles.  It is the second longest in France, with the Saint-Nazaire bridge being the longest at just over 2 miles. It reached a maximum height of 140 feet and was opened in May 1988.  As we now in the Low to Mid Season (September 12th to June 19th) the return toll is £6.90.
 
We finally found a supermarket, in fact there are two big ones on the Island.  I got the fresh milk and a few other things!
 
We decided to drive straight to our CampingCar Park and do some exploring tomorrow.  Its not a bad site but it isn't a campsite, its an aire and no camping behaviour is allowed, this means no chairs or awnings out etc, but quite a few people were ignoring that.
 
The village where the aire is, is called Saint Clement-des-Baleines.  There is obviously a rule that anything that is wood has to be painted a shade a green though there are a few grey doors.  I'm amazed at how many shade of green there are!  On doing some research I found that green doors are prevalent all over the island. Historically, island fishermen and sailors used leftover copper-based protective paint from their boat hulls to coat the wooden doors and shutters of their cottages. The anti-fouling paint helped protect the wood from harsh sea salt, humidity, and coastal weather.   Over time, these shades of green (ranging from dark forest green to soft sage and olive) became the visual identity of "Ré la Blanche"—contrasting against the brilliant whitewashed facades and terracotta roof tiles.  Today local architectural guidelines regulate exterior paint colors across Île de Ré villages to preserve the historic aesthetic. Homeowners must select approved muted tones of green, grey, or blue for doors, gates, and shutters. There were no blue doors in our village.

We had promised Rio a visit to a beach after his disappointment yesterday.  There was a path next to our aire which, supposedly, took us down to the beach, but there were deviations due to tree falls and we seemed to walk for ages before reaching the beach.  Sadly the tide was in so there wasn't much beach to walk on but Rio really enjoyed it and found lots of birds to chase - that was the whole point of the walk.

Back at Kiwi I spent ages trying to sort out our batteries.  I have a new friend who in the Techical Services Manager for Rolls Batteries in Nova Scotia, who had been helping me. I can't really explain what is going on as I just don't now!  I had to alter a lot of the settings through the app, now we just have to wait to see if they charge up quicker.  We will add an extra solar panel when we get home, so hopefully that will help a bit.
 
91 miles
What3words
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Saturday 26th September - L'Ile de Re, Nouvelle-Aquitaine
 
A day for exporing L'Ile de Re and, or course, our first stop was a ligthouse, and not just any old lighthouse, it is the most impressive lighthouse in France!  Le phare des Baleines (Whale Lighthouse) was built between 1849 and 1853 by Léonce Reynaud, a French architect and engineer.  It was built to replace the first tower constructed by Vauban in 1682. Whale Lighthouse is aligned with the Baleineaux lighthouse, which is smaller, 3 kms along the coast.  It is named Whale Lighthouse because a large number of whales are washed up on this part of the island.  it is 187 feet high and has 257 steps to the top, needless to say we didn't go to the top!
 

There is a large fish barrier by the lighthouse.  These were devised in the middle ages.  At high tide, the sea covers the walls and fish swim inside. When the tide goes out, the water recedes but the low walls trap the fish inside the enclosure for harvesting.  Local groups work to protect and restore the surviving fish locks, which can be seen along the coast during low tide.

When we got back to Kiwi, we had a parking ticket!  We were very neatly parked in a space, not upsetting anyone but we had driven past a sign which said no vehicles over 5 metre - we are 7.5 metres.  Silly mistake.  I will try and use the "we are silly Brits who just didn't see the sign and anyway the sign had a lorry on it, not a motorhome!).

 
I wanted to see the salt marshes (marais salants). There are, what feels like, hundreds of them.  Salt farming dates back to the 12th century, peaking in the 19th century when it covered nearly 18% of the island.  It  is harvested by local workers (sauniers) during the warm summer months between June and September.  Producers harvest coarse grey salt from the clay bottoms and also delicate fleur de sel that crystallizes on the water's surface.  The extraction process remains completely natural and relies on the sun and wind, using methods largely unchanged since the Middle Ages.  While the industry declined in the 20th century, a major revival over the last few decades has kept this tradition thriving. Today, around 100 professional salt workers (known as sauniers) manage approximately 400 hectares of active salt pans across the northern part of the island.

We then discovered that the Ile de Re doesn't really like big motorhomes.  We don't class ourselves as big but we are over 3.5 tons which, in France, makes us big.  Nearly all the towns have over 3.5 restrictions which meant we couldn't go everywhere we wanted to go.  In the end I set the sat nav to go to our aire for the night which is just before the bridge to the mainland.  We are right oon the beach and under a huge pine tree which is full of pine cones - I hope the wind doesn't get up in the night!

It is a beautiful tree.

However, the Ile de Re does like bicycles and there are cycle routes everywhere and lots of bike parking areas.  There is a cycle route just outside the site so we walked along it (pedestrians are allowed to share it) to Rivedoux Plage.  

It was a lovely walk and we rewarded ourselves with a beer before heading back.  The beer came in very strange wonky glasses which, in fact, we very nice to hold!

As we walked to Rivedoux Plage earlier we saw that dogs are allowed on the beach between 8pm and 10am, so we took Rio for one last beach walk before we head inland.  He becomes a different dog when he has sand under his paws.  He just ran and ran and almost forgot to stop whilst chasing a bird into the sea!!  He even had a great game of chase with a larger black dog - Rio was way out in front!

This photo is of a bike park at the lighthouse.  I wondered what on earth it was to start with!

We have enjoyed the Ile de Re but wished it was more large motorhome friendly.  I loved the green, grey and blue paintwork on the white houses and the villages, we were able to go through, are really pretty.

 
25 miles
What3words
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Sunday 27th September - Rochefort, Nouvelle Aquitaine
 
We were going to La Rochelle but decided to miss it out - it was just too much to do in one day with Rochefort as well.  Another one for the “must return to” list.  I may have overestimated some days on this trip!!
 
It was only a short drive to Rochefort and to the Pont Transbordeur de Rochefort (Rochefort Transporter Bridge).  We certainly couldn’t miss it at 217 feet!  I was worried that, as it was a sunny Sunday morning, it would be really busy, but we were able to park quite close by and walk to the bridge.  I had read that the bridge has a gondola hanging under it, and French regulations do call it a gondola, but it wasn’t swinging around in the sky it was just above the River Charente, though the tide was out!  The gondola is basically a swinging road, though the only vehicles allowed nowadays are bikes.  The ride across was slow and gentle but generally unexciting!  Maybe if the tide had been in it might have been different.  On the other side is a small museum which we had a quick look round before catching the gondola back. 

The building of the bridge took 27 months and it was opened on July 29th 1900.  It could carry 9 horse drawn carriages and 200 people per crossing.  In 1967, growing automotive traffic completely overwhelmed the slow-moving gondola. The transporter bridge was abandoned when a modern vertical-lift bridge was built right next to it.  In 1976 facing imminent threat of demolition, local heritage campaigns successfully saved the bridge by getting it classified as a French Historic Monument.  Then in 1994, following a major restoration initiative, the bridge reopened exclusively for pedestrians and cyclists. Meanwhile, its modern replacements continued to cycle through—the 1967 lift bridge was demolished in 1991 when the high-speed Martrou Viaduct opened.  In 2016–2020 the French Ministry of Culture funded a massive €22 million deep restoration. The entire bridge was meticulously overhauled to safely restore its original 1900 aesthetic.  The bridge reopened on its exact 120th anniversary—29 July 2020—cementing its place as a fully functional crown jewel of European industrial heritage.  The modern swinging bridge no longer holds 9 horse drawn carriages and 200 people!

There are 9 bridges in Europe, three in the UK.  However, only four are still operational.  In the UK the Warrington bridge closed in 1964, the one over the River Tees closed down in 2019 and though the Newport bridge closed in 2025 for a multi million pound restoration, it is hoped to open it again in 2027.

We found our aire, an area provided by the council for 12 motorhomes, with no problem.  We aren’t far from the marina and the view out of the windscreen is of boats on the hard being worked on.

We walked to Les Arsenal de Mer a maritime heritage complex and former naval shipyard.  Founded in 1666 by King Louis XIV and his minister Jean-Baptiste Colbert, it was designed to be the grandest military shipbuilding base in France. Often dubbed the "Versailles of the Sea," it constructed nearly 550 warships over nearly three centuries before closing its military operations in 1927.  

We passed the long Corderie Royale, the 1,227 feet long, 17th century building constructed to supply rigging for the French Navy.  It was a very impressive building. 
 
We came across a military re-enactment group and thought they were about to fire a cannon, but we were told it wouldn’t be until 3pm - 20 minutes time.  We did hear it later and were glad we weren’t standing next to it!

We found a bar and enjoyed a pint of local beer.   While we were there I discovered that Rochefort was celebrating the 400th anniversary of the French Navy and the 360th anniversary of its own naval arsenal.  There had obviously been lots going on over the weekend but at least we saw, and heard, the re-enactment.

We walked back to Kiwi and collapsed.  3 miles, mostly on cobble, and it has been a very hot day.

Oh, and by the way, the British Navy is 480 years old 🤣
 
34 miles
What3words 

satisfactory.behind.allowing

The Loire and Dordogne 2026 - Troglodytes and sea shell facades

Tuesday 22nd September - Montsoreau, Saumur.  Maine et Loire
 
A moving day.
 
We left Bracieux about 10am and drove to Chateau Villandry, which is World renowned for its gardens.
 
It was a nice easy journey and parking was a doddle as one of the group had told us exactly where to park. We had a coffee with John and Jen then walked round the gardens. With my OCD it was all amazing, set out geometrically and every plant and bush trimmed perfectly. The kitchen gardens were split up into large squares with vegetables interspersed with flowers. I can’t help but reiterate just how immaculate they were, there was hardly a leaf or a petal out of place!!  Round the edge of the gardens are some raised gardens and a walkway from which you get a great view of the gardens. Apparently there is a team of 10 gardeners but there wasn’t one to be seen - I reckoned that there is really a group of fairies that come out at night and do all the work 🤣🧚🧚‍♀️ We really loved the gardens and were so pleased we had visited. We didn’t go into the house as we had Rio with us.

The chateau is the last of the great Renaissance châteaux built along the Loire valley. Its history spans over eight centuries of military medieval origin, Renaissance elegance, 18th-century modifications, and 20th-century restoration. 
 
In the 12th century it was originally known as Colombiers and began its life as a fortified medieval stronghold.  

Jean le Breton, Minister of Finance to King Francis I, acquired the fortress in 1532. He demolished the medieval fortress except for the original central keep, constructing a new residence in the French Renaissance style. Having previously supervised the construction of Château de Chambord, Le Breton incorporated large windows, symmetrical arcades, and classical Italianate influences into Villandry. 

In 1754, the property was acquired by Michel-Ange de Castellane, the Marquis de Villandry and ambassador to the King. To match 18th-century architectural trends, he made extensive alterations: adding arcades to enclose the courtyard, installing French sash windows, and replacing the Renaissance grounds with an English-style landscape park.
 

Spanish physician Dr. Joachim Carvallo and his American wife, Ann Coleman, purchased the deteriorating estate in 1906. Carvallo gave up a research career in science to restore Villandry to its original Renaissance glory. He tore down the 18th-century facades and painstakingly recreated the 16th-century formal French Renaissance gardens using archival records and archaeological traces.
 

The estate remains privately owned by the Motse Carvallo family today and is preserved as a UNESCO World Heritage site open to the public.
 
Back to Kiwi for a quick lunch before setting off for Montsoreau which isn’t far from Saumur. We had a good journey until we tried to turn right through a small village which had a no motorhome sign. Fortunately we were able to turn round and continue on a different route. However when we arrived at the campsite there was a car and caravan blocking the entrance so we had to continue on and turn round. Back at the site entrance the car and caravan were still there so we had to drive on and turn round yet again. On our next approach we were able to get in! 
 
We have a nice pitch under a lovely shady tree very close to the River Loire. We sat out and were soon joined by Liz and Kevin followed by Jen and John.

By a sheer coincidence,  some friends from home are also staying on the site in their caravan before heading home on Thursday, so we had dinner with them in the site restaurant. The menu was very small but the food was good and the company was excellent. See you back on Hayling Island, Bob and Ingrid 😍
 
I got a call while we were at Villandry to say that my glasses aren’t going to be ready for at least another week. I’m not going to make any comment!  😢
 
94 miles
What3words
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Wednesday 23rd September - Montsoreau, Saumur.  Maine et Loire
 
Rio decided, at 6am, that it was poo time!  To be fair he had eaten very late last night. I found myself doing the walk again!
 
We were going to the Rochemenier Troglodytique Museum with Liz, as Kevin was going off on his bike. However Google decided that we might like to take the scenic journey which wanted to take us down a 2.3 ton restricted road, needless to say we didn’t actually go down it!  I finally managed to find another route.
 
There are two types of troglodyte (cave dweller), one is the plains/lowland Troglodytes (dug vertically down into flat land) and cliff/hillside Troglodytes (cliff homes which have a visible exterior wall or door).

The Rochemenier Village is one of the best-preserved underground dwelling sites in Europe which was dug into the flat land.  The site features around 20 rooms open to the public, including living quarters, kitchens, stables, barns, and cellars across two separate historical farmsteads.  A completely subterranean chapel carved directly into the rock in the 16th or 17th century, used historically for worship or retreat. The rooms maintain a naturally steady temperature of roughly 12°C–14°C year-round, making them cool in summer and easy to warm in winter.  Rooms display authentic 19th and early 20th century furniture, farm implements, bread ovens, wine presses, and household tools showcasing rural Angevin life. 

 
Farmers excavated open-air courtyards (patios) in the soft rock and carved rooms laterally off these central pits.  The soft, porous rock is called falun, a local limestone composed of fossilised marine shells deposited millions of years ago when the sea covered the Anjou region. It was easy to carve out with simple hand tools.  The site was an active farming community. Excavations created liveable spaces while providing building material (stone and marl) to sell or improve nearby crop fields.  Cave dwellings in the area date back to the Middle Ages (around the 13th century), though most structures visible today were developed and expanded between the 16th and 19th centuries.  The last residents moved out of the troglodyte farms at Rochemenier in the early 1930s.  After the farms were abandoned as primary residences, parts of the caves were used for agricultural storage, wine aging, or livestock before being preserved and reopened as a museum in 1967.  While the historic museum farms were vacated in the 1930s, a few modernised troglodyte homes elsewhere in the wider village of Louresse-Rochemenier are still inhabited today.

Behind the campsite are some white cliffs with a few cliff homes in. 

 
Google managed to take us back the quick way which was right along the Saumur river front. It was really lovely. Saumur is on our list of places to visit next time!
 
Back at the site I had the washing to do whilst sorting out the mammoth Monday blog post which I did using my laptop outside under our lovely tree.

We went and had a cuppa with Ingrid and Bob before meeting up with most of the group for dinner in the restaurant.  I have to say that the food in the restaurant has been excellent. 
 
It was a lovely, but sad, evening saying goodbye to everyone.  It’s been a very social group, most of whom we will never meet again.

We managed to find diesel today at €2.39 (£2.05) which was very good as we have been hearing real horror stories about the price and lack of diesel.
 
50 miles
 
 
Thursday 24th September - Les Sables d'Olonne, Pays de la Loire
 
It was a sad departure from the campsite this morning. Quite a few people had already departed but we were a bit late as I just couldn’t wake up. I had had a bad dream and been shouting out in my sleep!  I was being chased by some fluffy slippers 🤣🤣
 
Liz and Kevin are staying for another night before heading back to Calais and then home.  We will miss all the group but them especially.  Rio is going to be so bored as he just loves Liz, she is definitely on his list of “very favourite people”! 
 
We had a two hour drive to Les Sables D’Olonne.  One town we went round was called Cholet which took me back to the 1970s and The Wombles with the housekeeper, Madame Cholet.  Bernard Cribbins voiced and narrated every character in the series. A great actor and someone I was very privileged to have met on several occasions.
 
Just outside Cholet we found a Lidl so I did a quick supermarket dash and we were on our way again.
 
Google got us to our aire, well almost as the road was closed.  We went round the other way but that was closed too, however we saw some other motorhomes parked up on some spare ground, so we pulled in and got a nice pitch on the edge facing a nice grassy area. In fact it was nicer than the official site which was closed. It did look as if a height barrier had been taken out to allow motorhomes in as the other site was closed.

After a bit of planning we walked a couple of hundred yards to a bus stop and a free shuttle bus took us into town.  It was 31 degrees!
 

I wanted to visit L’Ile Penotte, a neighbourhood which is famous for its house facades, doors, archways, and mailboxes decorated with intricate, multi-coloured mosaics crafted entirely from sea shells (oyster shells, scallops, mussels, periwinkles, and exotic shells).  The artwork was started in 1997 by local artist Danièle Arnaud-Aubin.

From there we walked to the promenade and had a drink at a sea front bar. Richard had a beer and I had a caramel ligeois which was huge!

The beach was really busy with people sunbathing and lots of people swimming.   Poor Rio looked on longingly but it was no dogs until October 1st and, to be honest, there was very little room, even for a small dog!  In years gone by, the Parisians would take the train and spend their holidays there.  Sadly some of the old buildings are now modern flats which rather spoilt the overall look.

We walked to a bus stop and caught the bus back, where we sat out under the awning as it was still so hot.

 

We will go back to Les Sables d’Olonne as there is still a lot more to see.
 
Les Sables d'Olonne is well known for the Vendee Globe, a solo, non-stop, unassisted round-the-world yacht race which is held every four years starting from Port Olona. It takes somrwhere between 65 and 90 days and was started by local sailor Philippe Jeantot in 1989. 
 
Ellen MacArthur was second in 2000–2001 and did it in 94 days and 4 hours.
Alex Thomson was second in 2016–2017 and third in 2012–2013.  In 2016-2017 he completed the race in  74 days and 19 hours.  
Mike Golding was third in 2004–2005.  He completed the race in 88 days, 15 hours. Notably, he managed to finish the final 500 miles of the race without a keel after it sheared off in the North Atlantic.
Pete Goss was fifth in 1996–1997.  Goss made history in 1997 as the first Briton to complete the Vendée Globe. He is best remembered for turning back into a hurricane force storm in the Southern Ocean to rescue French competitor Raphaël Dinelli, an act of heroism for which he was awarded the Légion d'honneur.
The other British man you may remember was Tony Bullimore who miraculously survived after capsizing in the 1996–1997 race.  It became one of the most famous rescue stories in maritime history.
 
121 miles
What3words
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